Tag Archives: Canada

A Taste of History in Atlantic Canada

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One reason I love to travel is because it helps me learn about history. A couple of summers ago I went to New Brunswick for the first time. Before that trip, I had little idea how much this corner of Atlantic Canada had been transformed by America’s War of Independence. The territory — part of Nova Scotia until 1784 — was sparsely populated until 15,000 Loyalists fled here in the aftermath of the war. Their sudden arrival led to the creation of the province.

A sense of history is pervasive in New Brunswick, and some of my most memorable lessons came from Kings Landing. Located in the St. John River valley, the “settlement” contains a beautifully restored collection of 70 historic buildings from the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries. Many of the structures originated in other stretches of the river valley; they were brought to Kings Landing to prevent damage from flooding. Costumed actors depict the daily life in a small 19th-century town, but with a twist: All of the stories they tell are true. The families who lived in the original buildings have been thoroughly researched and their tales are retold in great detail. One of the most moving is recounted in a single-room cabin that housed a family that fled Ireland’s Great Famine.

Kings Landing also has a theater festival that runs from early July through Labor Day, presenting musical comedies and dramas appropriate for the whole family. Kids fall particularly hard for the site, since they can dress up in period costumes, help out the local blacksmith, and feed the farm animals. (For adults, there are workshops in rug hooking and braiding and in 19th-century medicine.)

For me, the biggest surprise was at the King’s Head Inn, an old-fashioned public house that serves as the main restaurant on the site. Several dishes on its short and historically accurate menu were celiac-safe. The staff explained that buckwheat has long been a favored crop in the region (in spite of its suspicious-sounding name, buckwheat is safe for the gluten intolerant). Not everything on the menu is safe, since barley, malt, and oats are also used (and because the menu changes frequently, call or e-mail in advance to ensure that there will be gluten-free options during your visit). The buckwheat is actually milled at Kings Landing, in a building that dates back to 1885 — and visitors can buy a pound at the gift shop to take home.

Kings Landing [address] 20 Kings Landing Road, Kings Landing (near Fredericton), New Brunswick, E6K 3W3 Canada [tel] 506-363-4999 [e-mail] info@kingslanding.nb.ca [web] www.kingslanding.nb.ca

Chocolate Heaven for Celiacs in Toronto

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When I was diagnosed with celiac disease, one of the thoughts I consoled myself with was that at least I could still have chocolate. I was only partially right: chocolate is naturally gluten-free, but some companies add wheat or malt for flavoring or consistency. It turned out that some of my favorite treats contained gluten, including Lindt milk chocolate truffles, and Smarties, a British analog to M&Ms (I grew up in Canada, so this was a much loved childhood candy).

I have a sweet tooth, so finding delicious gluten-free chocolates has become an ongoing quest for me. That’s why I was delighted to discover SOMA Chocolatemaker in Toronto. The shop is located in the city’s Distillery Historic District, a network of restaurants and boutiques housed in Victorian red-brick factory buildings that once contained the largest alcohol distillery in the British Empire. Depending on when you visit, you might catch the chocolate-makers at work behind the clear glass wall. Chocolates made in-house are displayed with signs alerting visitors to the presence of gluten or common allergens. There are several gluten-free bars to choose from, but my favorite is the elegantly uncomplicated blend of milk chocolate and dried cherries. SOMA’s truffles are expensive, but they pack such punch (think aromatic bergamot with bittersweet chocolate, or caramel inside dark Venezuelan chocolate dotted with fleur de sel) that having just one is supremely satisfying.

SOMA also makes ice cream and sorbet on-site as well. While the waffle cones aren’t gluten-free, you can get the frozen treats in a dish. Choices vary with the season, but the ones I’ve enjoyed include the lemon sour cream, the exceptionally rich Venezuelan vanilla, and the Ontario blueberry sorbet. Since SOMA produces its products in small batches, not all flavors are available on every visit — but that’s just more incentive to drop in on a regular basis.

SOMA Chocolatemaker [address] Distillery Historic District, 55 Mill Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada [tel] 416-815-7662 [email] info@somachocolate.com [web] www.somachocolate.com

Stalking Jamie Kennedy

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I’m a groupie. Not for rock stars or actors or even authors (well, maybe for Ken Bruen and Joyce Carol Oates and the Hard Case Crime writers), but for chefs. Toronto’s Jamie Kennedy is one I’ve been stalking for years. He’s a co-founder of the local chapter of the Slow Food movement, and his commitment to environmental issues, organic agriculture, and local producers is legendary. A decade ago, when I had a steady gig reviewing restaurants for Toronto Life magazine, Kennedy owned the sublime JK ROM, the restaurant at the Royal Ontario Museum. After that well-loved spot became a casualty of the museum’s ambitious renovation plan, the chef opened a new spot downtown.

The Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar is a perfect tapas restaurant. It’s only slightly larger than a cubbyhole, with tables for two lit by candles and barstool perches for those too tired (or hungry) to wait for a table. If you’re not familiar with Ontario vintages, this is one of the finest places to get an education: wines are available in half-size glasses, all the better for sampling. Ask the staff what distinguishes an Ontario Riesling from an Alsatian one, and you’re likely to get a taste of each along with an explanation.

When I told the server that I had celiac disease, she disappeared with my menu. A few minutes later she returned and handed it back to me. I opened the folded page and saw that the entire thing had been annotated in ballpoint pen. Dishes that were not available in a gluten-free version were crossed out, while potential modifications to others were written in. The server went over the menu with me in detail, pointing out potential problems with cross-contamination. I ended up with tapas-sized plates of asparagus with poached egg and pine nuts, tender duck confit, mushroom ragout, and blackberry sorbet.

I’ve been back to the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar several times, and have had a menu annotated for me on each visit. I’ve also been to the restaurant with friends who suffer from lactose intolerance and food allergies, and have seen the staff lavish the same care that they do with celiacs.

Sorry, Chef Kennedy – you can’t shake this groupie.

Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar [address] 9 Church Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada [tel] 416-362-1957 [web] www.jkkitchens.com